Pot Roast For Company

" Do you need us to bring anything?" they asked. "No, just come" we said. And yet our friends Mike and Sally came bearing gifts. Literally a bucket of fresh beets direct from Sally's amazingly beautiful and productive garden and greenhouse, a cushion spurge she thought I might enjoy in my garden and a beautiful package of beef cheeks wrapped in white paper. Invite a rancher to dinner and if you rate you might get an enviable cut like cheeks or hanger (both tucked away in my freezer right now).

Our favorite neighbors, our friends recently came back from a trip. We missed them and wanting to hear about their travels made a good excuse for dinner at our house.
Looking into my freezer I found a chuck roast -- almost 4 pounds --really two big for the two of us (not a fact that generally stops me) so it seemed perfect to build a dinner for four around. Pot roast. Could I really serve pot roast to guests? James had advised me to make a "regular dinner" not go overboard. Pot roast is about as regular as it gets so I forged on.
Stracotto (Italian Pot Roast) in Italian officially means overcooked but the name is used for a variety of braised roasts. The meat is slow cooked in a rich sauce flavored with pancetta, aromatic vegetables, dried mushrooms and tomatoes. Jumping off from Sara Moulton's recipe I found online I started by soaking 1 ounce of dried mushrooms in a cup of warm beef stock. Then browned the seasoned meat on all sides in hot olive oil. I set the meat aside, poured off most of the fat and added a couple ounces of chopped pancetta to the pan along with a chopped onion, carrot, and celery stalk. When the vegetables softened I tossed in 4 cloves of garlic (finely chopped), about a TB minced fresh rosemary, 1/4 cup chopped parsley, 2 bay leaves and seasoned the pot with salt and pepper. Next I stirred in 3 TB of tomato paste and a whole bottle of red wine (well actually the remains of two bottles I had in the kitchen -- using up that wine was initially the inspiration for this dinner). The wine cooked down for about 20 minutes and then the beef went back in the pot along with the mushrooms, a 28 oz can of tomato purée, and enough beef stock (yes I used the mushroom soaking liquid but poured it through cheesecloth first to remove any grit) to come 2/3 of the way up the side of the roast in the pot. The meat simmered very slowly, covered for almost 3 hours. I turned it over in the pot a couple times while it cooked.
When the meat was super tender I strained the sauce to remove the aromatic vegetables and cooked the liquid down a bit (with the meat resting on the side) to serve as gravy.
When people come to dinner, though I do like to be busy in the kitchen, I to have a good number of make ahead dishes. That way the kitchen seems clean and everything well organized to hit the table at the same time without guests seeing the cook starting to sweat. I usually add the finishing touches while James and our guests enjoy a few appetizers (today it was a salt cod brandade I had tucked way in the freezer for just such an occasion and toasty French bread) Alongside the classic of make ahead dishes, pot roast, I served an oven baked polenta. -- a fuss free but still impressive side dish, especially when studded with delicious creamy Humbolt Fog goat's cheese and parmesan. With these two rich dishes instead of a heavy vegetable recipe I opted for a bitter fresh tasting arugula, radish and red onion salad with tart balsamic vinaigrette (1/4 cup balsamic, 1 tsp dijon mustard, 1/2 tsp salt, pepper, 1 minced clove garlic, 1/2 cup olive oil shaken together).

I know James said "regular dinner" but I just can't have people to dinner and not serve dessert -- especially when I know our guests, like Mike and Sally, appreciate a sweet treat. More than once James has told "you don't always have to serve dessert." But honestly I do. You go to someone's house you expect dessert -- it's what good boys and girls get. Even if it's just something simple I can't feel that I have treated guests well unless the cake plate comes out.

Usually, because I love a theme, I would have gone for something terribly Italian like budino or biscotti and vin santo. But tonight -- because I wanted to try a recipe I saw on The Kitchy Kitchen, a cooking blog with photography so gorgeous I think about quitting every time I read it -- and because we have a lot of jam around the house thanks to my annual county fair efforts -- I opted for these simple lemon jam bars. A little tart a little sweet and just sugary enough to feel special -- just like the perfect dinner for friends.

Cookies Cookies Cookies

Somehow I ended up saying I would bake cookies for 200 guests at an upcoming fundraiser for Drakes Bay Oyster Company. This local oyster farm is caught up in a legal battle with the federal government over their longtime lease on what is now a park, The Pt Reyes National Seashore. When the park, one of the most beautiful places in the world, was created in the 1960's from what had been agricultural and grazing land an agreement was made to continue and support the farming presence as park feature and as part of the area's long heritage. Drakes Bay was one of those farms. Now their lease is up for renewal and the department of the interior -- based on what many say are less than scientific studies and  against the advice of many environmentalists and conservationists -- has refused to renew the lease. Those of us who support local agriculture and local foods are fighting to save the farm. Not only are 100 years of oyster farming in Drakes Estero at risk but, we fear, the future of the family ranches and dairies that dot the beautiful seashore as well. It's sure to be a long legal battle, these chocolate iced peanut bars are a small start.

Easy Homemade Cookies

The cookie jar has been empty for quite some time. I had to step up and whipped up a batch of whole wheat drop cookies with raisins. Nothing flashy. Simple, adapted from a recipe by King Arthur Flour. First combine 2 cups of white flour, 1 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 tsp baking powder, 1 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp baking soda in a large bowl. Next cream two sticks of butter with 3/4 cup each white and brown sugar. Beat in two eggs and a splash of vanilla. Mix in half the flour mixture, then 1/4 cup of milk, and finish with the rest of the flour. Stir in the raisins. Drop by spoonfuls or a cookie scoop onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake for about 16 minutes at 375º. Let cool and fill your cookie jar just like it was nothing.

Afternoon Cookies

I still have plenty of apple sauce from the canning extravaganza brought on by our prolific backyard tree. I decided to use a bit with these applesauce oatmeal cookies (adapted from a recipe by baking guru Nick Maglieri). It's always nice to have  full cookie jar and a bit emptier pantry.

Another Place For Apples To Hide

Between chores today I stirred up a batch of oatmeal cookies using some of my homemade applesauce instead of butter. Based on a recipe from my favorite baker, Nick Maglieri, I creamed 2 TB of butter with 1/2 cup of sugar. Then I added in 1/2 cup of brown sugar, 1 egg, 1/4 cup of apple sauce and a dash of vanilla. I sifted in 1 cup of flour, mixed with 1 tsp baking powder and 1/2 tsp baking soda. Just before I portioned the cookies out onto a parchment lined baking sheet I stirred in 1/3 cup of old fashioned oats and a big handful of dried currants. I would have used the more expected raisins but we were all out. The cookies baked for about 14 minutes at 375º. The jar is half empty already.

New Year's Tart

I was doing some baking today. To be honest it was for a party we are having in January. I have been baking like mad trying to ready everything that can be done in advance. Today's chore: 3 dozen brandied sour cherry and pear tartletts. I'm not sure how it happened but even after finishing and freezing (unbaked) all of my party goods I still had enough filling left over for a full sized tart and thought I could just barely stretch out a crust from the pieces I wasn't willing to roll a third time. I froze the leftover dough and I was going to grate it into the tart pan. That is until a certain pup who shall remain nameless -- thought it looked too delicious to look away while Mommy was downstairs chatting with Daddy. Dog thief.

Anyway I made a quick recovery (can't waste that filling) by whipping up a sweet pastry dough (Nick Maglieri's pasta frolla) -- super easy to make and to roll. In the food processor I combined 2 1/3 cups of flour, 1/2 tsp baking powder, 1/4 tsp salt, and 6 TBs sugar and then added in one stick of cold butter cut in chunks. I pulsed until the butter was the size of peas in the flour and added in two eggs and pulsed again until the dough came together. After chilling for an hour in the fridge I rolled out two circles to fill my tart pan and baked the filled tart for 45 minutes at 375º.

Waste not want not. I made James a quick tray of pie crust cookies with the leftover sweet dough. I cut the rolled dough into squares, sprinkled them with cinnamon sugar, and baked for about 10 minutes along with the tart. Just right with a cup of tea.

Tonight someone else is having the party but we are bringing the tart. And at home, a little lagniappe for my honey as they say in the Crescent.

The Elusive Macaroon

For years I have feared the macaroon. These delicate French sandwich cookies seemed the provenance of esteemed chefs and professional bakers. Too exacting for me.

Today, prepping for a party we are giving just after the holidays (macaroons, says Martha Stewart, can be frozen for up to 3 months) I decided to try.

I pulsed confectioners sugar (1 cup) and almond flour (3/4 cup) in the food processor and sifted 2 times. I beat two egg whites until foamy, added a pinch of cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks formed. I sprinkled in 1/4 cup of superfine sugar and beat, adding in a few drops of red gel color and 1 TB of strained raspberry purée, to firm peaks. I sifted in the sugar and almond mixture and folded it into the pink batter. I piped the batter into 1 inch circles, I let the batter sit for almost 20 minutes, I preheated the oven to 375º and dropped the temperature 50º just as the tray went in, I rotated the tray after 5 minutes. The result? About 5 of the -- let's just say way, way more than 5 -- cookies I made are just about perfect. Lovely round discs with no peaks, no cracks on top, and a delicate shine across the surface.

They all taste fine. The raspberry flavor is bright and unexpected. But it's the look I am after.

Practice. Next try coconut.

Gifts From Grant

James' friend Grant has a yard full of fruits and flowers from his native Australia (or other tropical regions). We've had avocados, grapefruit, guavas which quickly became a couple small jars of jam and most recently bright orange Hachiya persimmons just ripe enough for a batch of cookies.

I creamed one stick of butter with 1 1/2 cups of sugar and added in one beaten egg. the pulp of one large persimmon, and a dash of brandy (about 1 tsp). Into the well mixed liquids I sifted in two cups of flour, 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, 1/2 tsp nutmeg and a pinch of cloves and gave it a good stir. Next I added in about 1 cup of raisins, mixed them in and dropped the batter by rounded teaspoons onto a silpat lined cookie sheet to bake for 15 minutes at 350º. When the cookies had cooled just a bit I dusted them with powdered sugar.

Thanks Grant!

House Specialty With Shelly and Drew

Now that we've discovered our "specialty", it's pretty much clams for every guest. Of all the recipes James' favorite is still the tried and true spaghetti with clam sauce. So I whipped up a pot last night when our friends Shelly and Drew came over to discuss Thanksgiving plans. Because we were having guests, and because I know Shelly loves it I added a loaf of buttery garlic bread/ I split the loaf down the middle and covered with a mixture of butter, garlic, parsley, S&P, olive oil and oregano. I wrapped the closed loaf up in tin foil and baked it for about 25 minutes at 400º.
Same old recipe with a little bacon added in the beginning for extra flavor. I sautéed pancetta in olive oil over a low flame until crisp. I added in 5 large cloves of garlic (sliced thin) and a good sized pinch of chili flakes and stirred them around in the hot oil for about 2 minutes. Next came 1 1/2 cups of a mixture of wine and clam juice, a handful of chopped parsley, and the juice of two lemons (I was making a big pot so this was probably double the amounts - except for the garlic -- I generally use). I brought the liquid up to a boil. Then came close to 4 lbs of clams and a big knob of butter. I covered the pot and let the little Manilla clams steam over high heat for about 7 minutes.

When the pasta was drained I added it to the pot with the clams, along with another handful of chopped parsley and about 6 TB of butter. I gave everything a good stir, poured the pasta into a serving bowl and topped with a thin drizzle of olive oil.
I like a little bitter salad to go with the rich pasta. I usually do some kind of arugula combination but this time I decided to try a simple recipe from the Zuni Cafe Cookbook -- shredded radicchio combined with toasted bread crumbs and sieved hard boiled eggs, in a piquant anchovy dressing. Delicious. This salad was a big winner with me and James didn't even taste it. "Honey," he explained " You can't expect me to eat salad when there are clams and spaghetti and bread on the table." Words of a lifelong thin man.
For dessert I tried something simple and vaguely Italian. Pears baked in red wine with toasted almond gelato and pignoli cookies. The pears had been sitting in our fridge so I quickly peeled them, and popped them in a covered baking dish with 1 bottle of fruity red wine, 2 cinnamon sticks, zest of one orange, 4 cloves, and about 1/2 cup brown sugar. That baked for 45 minutes in a 350º oven. I removed the cover and baked for another 45º until the pears were soft and the wine had reduced to a slightly syrupy consistency. Left over from a past recipe I found a tub of almond paste on the shelves in the kitchen. I combined 8 ounces of that with 3/4 cup of powdered sugar in the food processor until it was broken up into tiny, sandy bits. I then mixed in 1 egg white and a TB of honey. I piped that dough out onto parchment covered baking trays, pressed pine nuts into the dough and baked for about 12 minutes (watching very closely) at 350º.

Dinner with friends to plan a dinner with friends.