Back To Sullivan Street

Not long ago I promised myself to make every recipe in my bread hero Jim Lahey's cookbook. I've drifted off. I haven't bought the Romertopf bakers the last recipes call for (where would I put them? I can almost hear James asking). With guests coming to dinner and (yes, I admit it) a kitchen disaster -- burned blood orange tart, I turned to Lahey to save the day. With just 3 hours until they arrived I found a simple, quick and impressive recipe for chocolate budino, a silky soft cake made from melted chocolate, butter, sugar, bread crumbs (hence the Lahey connection), and separated eggs -- started, mixed, baked and ready in 45 minutes. And, if I'd had the sense to plan -- a dessert that can be made in advance -- perfect for, on another day, low stress entertaining.

I had already made a batch of pistachio ice cream and a salted caramel sauce to go with the ill-fated tart. When our budino came to the table dressed with these heady toppings, no one knew or missed what might have been and I adopted a new last minute stand-by.