Michelin Guide Pintxos: Xukela

Pointing, it should be noted, is not a fool proof system. Today it may have failed me.

I wandered through "the seven streets", Bilbao's original trading center occupying parallel streets between the church of San Anton and the city's estuary.

Perhaps it's my travel weary legs or the inadequacy of hotel maps but you would never imagine a small area of alleys lined with boutiques and bars and endless shops hanging full legs of jamon serrano ready to slice could be difficult to navigate. I always feel a sense of accomplishment when I wander out in a new city and actually get to where I am headed. Goal achieved. And so it was with a sense of pride I stopped in front of Xukela, an old quarter bar where the pintxos are considered (by Lonely Planet and Michelin alike) highly creative, especially tasty and reasonably priced.

I wasn't hungry at all but to celebrate my accomplishment of finding the bar I sauntered in and vaguely pointed at what I thought were sautéed mushrooms on a slice of soft bread. One bite and I realized this was no mushroom. How had I not noticed that shape before? The rippled edge? Cockscomb. I think. It wasn't a taste or texture I recognized and honestly one I'd rather forget. It's still stuck in my throat.All in a day's food wandering I suppose. So many other choices. So many other places to try.

Afternoon Pintxos: Bar Ledesma

Walking back towards the hotel I turned onto a popular pedestrian side street filled with bars and cafes and people. The sign out front advertised meatballs, and hake ( a popular local fish served with parsley sauce). Maybe it's time for something not on a slice of bread, I thought.
It was not to be. At nearly 5 pm the kitchen was still closed and only cold pintxos (some warmed in a microwave upon request) dishes were being offered. Dinner starts late here in Spain. Restaurants open at 8 or 8:30 pm so there'd be no reason to have a cook on much earlier I reasoned as I pointed towards a wedge of tortilla on a slice of bread, sticking with localtradition.

Spanish tortilla, not at all like the familiar Mexican version is not a bread but a thick type of open-faced omelette (really more like a skillet baked egg cake -- no flour) usually filled with potatoes, but chorizo, peppers, mushrooms and more are often found. Whatever the filling the dish is a Spanish constant. At every bar, every restaurant, every home, every meal, every snack -- tortillas are offered and taken. Customers debate where to find the best.

Basically thinly sliced potatoes (try 3-4 medium) and a medium onion (also sliced) are sautéed (some cooks dice the potatoes which to me is not as nice a texture) without browning in a good quantity of olive oil until softened. The potatoes, without the excess oil, are added to beaten eggs (maybe 6 for an 8 to 10 inch non stick pan) and the whole mixture is added back to the skillet -- freshly slicked with olive oil -- over medium heat. As the edges just start to firm the heat is reduced to medium low for about 5 minutes to insure a creamy texture. Turning this egg masterpiece takes practice. In Spanish style the entire cake (the top s likely still runny) is slid off to a plate, inverted onto a second plate, and coaxed back into the frying pan -- again coated with olive oil. Tortillas can be eaten warm but most often are served at room temperature. An all day snack.

Pintxos At Cafe Bar Bilbao

I came around a corner in the old part of Bilbao and was suddenly face to face with the joyful noise that inhabits Cafe Bar Bilbao. A homey hodge-podge of blue and brown tiles, it's friendly and inviting and I walked right in.

Based on my clearly circumstantial observation, paying fair homage to the local soccer team may be a liquor license requirement. I have not wandered into a single doorway not flying the flag, hanging posters, dressing children in the uniform, or watching highlights on TV. Pintxos, I have to admit, are great finger food -- might just be the perfect fan meal.

Now resigned to my pathetic pointing I motion towards a slice of ham topped with mushrooms and something green. I assume it's spinach until I into this burst of flavor and realize today's jamon is topped with delicious Pimientas de Padron. Lightly fried and heavily salted peppers. This might be the best bite of my trip.

I resist the urge to eat the entire tray of pepper topped ham and bring over a squid croquette, topped with a not merely decorative piece of fried squid.

There's a reason this place is crowded and everyone looks happy.

On The Pintxos Trail: Casa Victor Montes

Yes, every tourist in Bilbao probably ends up at Victor Montes at some point. It's the kind of place. I was drawn in by the enthusiastic decoration and the rows of reportedly very creative open faced sandwiches called Pintxos or Pinchos in these parts. Though now pretty much anything served as a tapa in this area of Spain will be called pinxtos, originally the word referred to the toothpick that holds the often elaborate sandwich together. Pinchar (the verb that coined the names pinchos or pintxos which is a Basque-fied version of the same) means to pierce. There are fewer toothpicks then in years past, but the name lives on.

Pintxos ready at the bar. Customers walk in, order drinks and, if their Spanish is as bad as mine, point and meekly say something brilliant like . . . "Quiero uno de esos (I want one of those).

I pointed vaguely and ended up with crab salad mounded on a slice of baquette (or the spanish equivalent of it), a sprinkle of caviar dusted the top.I thought 'd try just one more. Looking for the unusual I motioned for this eggplant and (I think) herbed cheese stack. Interesting and a little messy, nice for a bite. Bilbao is a city of eaters, hoping from one delicious bite to the next. I am waddling my own trail. Many pintxos to try before I rest.

Starting Off In Bilbao

Up here in the North what are called tapas throughout Spain are called Pinchos. Though many of the offerings are similar, so far the dishes seem a bit spicier and there are an enormous variety of creative, tasty open faced sandwiches (obviously a favorite in these parts) offered throughout the day at every bar. At night the cooking gets a bit more ambitious and on Bar Artajo's short menu we were offered . . . mussels with a delicious tomato anchovy sauce, and patatas bravas -- a favorite all over Spain, fried potatoes with a spicy mayonnaise dressing.
Another Spanish classic, pulpo ala gallega -- octopus Gallician style served simply with paprika and live oil.
Morcilla -- blood sausage is a popular treat.

A memorable dinner at a classic Bilbao bar,

So Simple And So Delicious

Gambas a la plancha. Beautiful pink shrimp crisped on the grill (or a griddle really) with just a touch of lemon (maybe a bit of garlic) and crunchy flavorful salt.

"Those shrimp," says Rocio, my guide to all things Spanish and fellow food enthusiast, "are not any shrimp. Those are gambas blancas de Huelva. The meat is 'quite white' and they are super flavorful. Very Special," she declared.

Starting off well here in Spain.

Tapas On Madrid's Cava Baja

The woman at the hotel's front desk so enthusiastically circled Cava Baja on the makeshift map in my hand that despite my advancing jet lag I went off on a cold Madrid day to find lunch.

I wandered down the little street jammed with restaurant and tapas options wondering how I was to choose one or the other and then was drawn in by the green door and cluttered charm of La Perejila.
I quickly perused the menu -- tripe, partridge, blood sausage -- I was pretty enthusiastic.

Perejila, my friend Rocio tells me means "little parsley". My dictionary (it's not even the page that the dogs ate)and google translate both failed me and I had to reach out for help. I assumed it had something to do with a dancer's embellishment, not the food's as the decor and the distinctly vintage sound track bespoke a flamenco themed bar. Leave it to me to find Andalusia in Madrid.

I ordered what was described as beans and red partridge. The meat itself was slightly gamey but it perfumed the creamy, buttery beans (those beans are $25 a pound in the states Rocio lamented) and delicate sauce making a perfect humble stew for a cold afternoon, along with the olives, chorizo, and chewy bread offered up by the friendly staff.
A parting look and back on the street keeping an eye open for the next spot to draw me in.